'99 Ram with Problems, part 2

[jks0313]

Oooookayyyy, since my last question hasn't generated any answers, let's try this one.  Does anyone know if a Dealership can relaod the memory in my Ram's brain and make the Tach, Odo and Speedo work?  I replaced the tranny speed sensor, but the Speedo and Odo still don't work.  The needles move, unlike the OP gauge, so I think they are OK.  I'm going to buy a new cluster but if it doesn't work, I'm at a loss as to what to do next.   

[Bill Cooke]

That is such a tough one. It sounds like you have a short or something in the dash. It may be the cluster or it may be the wiring. The compter should not effect the gauges. They run independantly from the computer. They do need exact voltage and a good ground though. Do you have a voltmemter that you can start tesing things with?

I am not really familar with the gauge cluster in those trucks so this is all just general knowledge I'm sharing. I wish I could be of more help. I know how frustration this must be. I had a dash problem for about 6 months and it turned out to be a loose wire was shorting out. This was intermitent and would "fix" itself when I would take the dash apart to try to find the problem. If finally burned the wire so bad Stevie Wonder could see where the problem was.

Good luck and please post any findings as you go. I'll try to help if I can

Bill Cooke

[jks0313]

Thanx for the reply.  I do have a meter, so I can test the conracts (there's a block on each side) and see if anything is happening.  But the "Haynes Manual" says not to pull the cluster without disconnecting the battery, to prevent the Airbag from accidentally firing.       Is it safe to do that?  The last thing I need is for the Airbag to AD in my face!     Also, is there someplace I can scare up a wiring diagram that tells which contacts control which gauges?      Thanx for your help!

[hilton8r]

I had a lot of electrical issues in my G/C. Windows were left down one night when it rained. It was never the same after that. Curious if moisture could be to blame for some of your troubles. Have you priced out a cluster yet? I doubt it's cheap... Whereabouts do you live? Southern California here...

[jks0313]

Thanx for the come-back.  I just ordered a replacement cluster from an outfit on e-bay called LKQ, who said I can return it if it doesn.t work.       I just hope there isn't a problem with a cluster from a 2000 working in a '99.  I'll post up when it arrives.  Thanx again, and BTW, Marylander here (GO LADY TERPS!      )

[jks0313]

Well, the good news is the replacement cluster arrived today!    I put it right in (I'm getting good at r&r the cluster      ).  The Tach, and Oil Pressure gagues now work!     UNFORTUNATELY, the Speedo STILL doesn't work.      And now, a few seconds after you start it, the Odo goes from 96XXX to "No buS", and the Check Engine light comes on.      The Cluster came from a 2000, don't know if that makes any difference.  Anyone have any ideas?  Might it help to have a dealer "flash" the brain before I send the cluster back?      Thanx!

[jks0313]

Hallelujah!!!  I finally got the gages, lights, and etc. working!  Turns out the RWAL sensor on the the diff was bad.      I replaced the cluster and immediatly got  CE, ABS and Brake System warning lights.  I was told this was caused by the sensor.  $55 later, and it all functions!     Now for some of the other problems:     The Cruise Control doesn't work even though the indicator lamp comes on when you press the button,    and the 4WD indicators don't light up when in 4HI or 4LO      Any ideas/suggestions, anybody?   

[hilton8r]

Isn't the 4WD indicator issue on your Ford? Or do you have the issue on your Ram too?

John

[jks0313]

I have it on both.    On the Ford, the 4WD light goes out after a while, or sometimes doesn't come on at all.  On the Dodge it doesn't come on at all.  Does that mean the 4WD isn't engaging?  I do know Low Range works, but I don't know if it works in 4WD.     Short of jacking it up and putting it in gear in 4WD to see if the wheels turn, is there any other way to tell?  Thanx!

[Bill Cooke]

Put it in low range on pavement and try to turn hard left or right, at very slow speed! If the steering wheel bucks and tries to pull out of your hands it's in 4 wheel drive. If not, not.

You'd have to check linkage, wiring, vacuum hoses and the shift motor at the axle. An easy way to deal with this is a Posi-loc cable shifter for the front axle. That way you know it's in 4wd.

[jks0313]

I tried turning the wheel in Lo-Range going slowly in a parking lot.  It was raining and the ground was wet, but there wasn't much resistance other than the trans shifting up.  It was suggested to me that due to the age and mileage on the truck (As much as 130K, depending on which documentation you look at), I should have the tranny, transfer-case and differential fluids changed.  Since I know its a dirty messy job, I guess I'll take it to AAMCO Transmissions and ask them to see what needs to be done.     I know they usually tend to be rip-off artists, but they usually are less than a Stealership.   

[jks0313]

BTW, I've noticed that when you do the test where you hold the Trip Odometer button in while switching the ignition on, the 4WD lights NEVER light up.     Are they supposed to?  All the rest of the "Idiot Lights" light up during this test, and I know the bulbs are good.  Thanx.

[Bill Cooke]

That isn't a warning light so I don't thinkl it will come on with that test.

Yes, got the fluid changed! It should be done every 60-70K so you are about double that. Aamco will just try to upsell you. Don't fall for it.... Do get synthetic gear oil the the axles. That is about the best thing you can do for a 4x4. The trans is good too but brand means more than just getting any old"synthetic". The stuff they have will not be worth it.

The next test to find the problem is to have someone look that the front drive shaft while you drive slowly in 4wd. It should spin, no matter what. If it is then it would be the CAD shift motor not engaging the front axle shaft. That could be vacuum lines or a bad shift motor. If the drive shaft does not spin the transfer case is not shifting into 4wd and there is either a linkage issue or the case is broken. Linkage would be MUCH more common! Bushing wear out ahd the linkage falls apart. That's about $10 at the dealer and your set.

Good luck and let us know what you find

Bill Cooke

[jks0313]

Been sick, haven't been able to check the site.    AAMCO says that the trans isn't shifting right (well, I knew that) and they're talking about 2 THOUSAND bucks to rebuild it!   You can imagine what my wife (aka 'The Boss") had to say about that  .  We may give up and just sell the damned thing.  Since we're right at the break-even point of cost vs. KBB Value now, she may be right.  Opinions, anyone? 

[hilton8r]

You may want to check the boneyards to see if you can find a used trans to swap in if yours really is bad. And you might find an honest local transmission repair shop if you ask around a bit.

I'm more inclined to think it's just a matter of service (linkages/fluids/etc... as Bill suggested).

I definitely wouldn't sell the beast without due dilligence on the easy cheap stuff like that.

If you do have it rebuilt, have it rebuilt with upgraded parts and shop that price around.

[Bill Cooke]

Dodge used plastic servos in these trucks. BAD idea.... Every shop will say it needs a rebuild if there is the slightest hint of a problem. You can change out the servos with the trans in the truck. Call a dealer and ask about the "618" aluminum servos. They came behind the early Cummins trucks (91-93). Also check a 47RE or 48RE if they are out of those. They have to be aluminum. A boneyard 727 would also be a good place to find these parts too. Good old Mopar used the same parts from the 60's on!
Also, put a shift kit in it. Transgo makes a really good one. That should get you a LOT more miles out of it.

All that can be done at home with regular tools and an average skill level. Should be around 200 to 300 for everything. Plus, you can say you fixed your automatic transmission. How many people can say that?

[jks0313]

Thanx for the come-backs and the info, guys!     But since the idea of parts from a 727 came up, here's an interesting question:     Would a 727 from an old (70's or 80's) small block V8 truck fit a 2G Ram?  It so happens I know someone who had a 318 with a 727 from an old Ramcharger, and I'll bet it's lying in his barn collecting dust.  I might be able to convince him to take pity on me     and "donate" the Torqueflite to help me save the truck.   

[Bill Cooke]

It would bolt in but the computer would have a fit. The 96 and up used an electronic trans. If you got a manual trans computer youi "MIGHT" be able to make it work buit why?

You can use the front half of the parts from the 727 to beef up the trans you have. Then it's just 4th gear you have to worry about and that should be fine.

Bill Cooke

[jks0313]

Hello everyone, been laid up from colonoscopy and polyp surgery.    Since it was such a nice day and my wife wasn't home to tell me not to,    I decided to crawl under the Ram for a look-see.  I discovered that the 4WD light on the dash comes on when I jumper across the wires to the front axle.    Also, I pulled the vacuum lines off the shift motor (is that the right term?  ) and started the truck.  In 2WD there is vacuum on the red line, in 4WD there is vacuum on the black line.  Does that sound right?  I don't have a vacuum gauge so I couldn't say how much there was but it didn't feel very strong.  But I DID notice that when I was parking it, it was in 4WD-HI (I didn't know, no lamp, remember) and the steering wheel was bucking and jumping around like Bill said (which is how I found out it was in 4WD).  I drove around a little playing with the 4WD lever and when it went in and out of the ranges (4Lo, N, 2Hi, 4Hi) it was very hard and seemed to almost grind, not like my Ranger (which admittedly is a manual trans).  Could it be a bad switch that's keeping the 4WD light from coming on? Short of paying for a new one, how could I test it?     Is that something I have to get from a dealer or could someone like AutoZone or NAPA have it?  The Haynes Manual says to put Hypoid gear lube in the switch hole if you take the shift motor off.  Does that mean that even if the front diff is full the shifter could be empty (Say, maybe that's why it shifts so rough!)?      As always, your thoughts and opinions are appreciated!   

[jks0313]

Well, I ordered a new switch for the front axle and put it in.  You guessed it, STILL NO 4WD LIGHT ON THE Dash!     Suggestions, anyone?